Port float deck repair and Daggerboard case pictures

Categories: Decks Main Hull

I’m going to back up a few weeks to say that due to a lack of thought when attaching the deck to the port float, the reference lines I needed for extra layers of fiberglass at the large access hatch were not transferred to the visible side. Some measurements were made and a few cuts with the hole saw made in order to feel for the stringers inside. When we glassed the deck in place, a big assumption was made that the access holes I drilled in the deck would be in the same area as the large access hatch… Was finally able to go to the storage unit with a tape measure to measure where the hatch ended up on the starboard float (yes – this should have been done before the hole was cut…. yes, I feel not too smart about this)

Suffice to say, some patching needed to be done to this area of the deck… First, cut a larger area (after marking where the hatch was going to go)


and attached some thin plywood with packaging tape under it with screws (again, on an area that would be removed)


Put 2 layers of tape under to form an attachment flange, a piece of foam, filled the edges with micro and then 2 layers of A fabric on top, followed by some peel ply. A few hours later it was ready to be properly cut.


and all hatch access holes were cut, edges dug out and back-filled with putty.


also took a picture of the daggerboard case halves. Unfortunately, I should have gone with my gut when I thought packaging tape would make a better mould surface for the port half due to the more complex shape. I, instead, did the same as the starboard half and used bagging film, which did not stay firmly down against the mould, causing some areas that need attention near the rope channel.


Time spent: 4 hours