I went ahead and ordered the 3⁄8″ fiberglass tube that Jay recommended and it should be here early next week. I also ordered some 6″ screw-in inspection hatches, midget cowel vents for the rear of the float, and 10×13″ access hatches. Am thinking about taking some of the many off-cuts of fiberglass cloth and making the backing plates for float pad-eye and deck eyes instead of using aluminum or purchasing a ready-made fiberglass tapping block.
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For the past month or so now, I kept having this nagging fear. Most likely it’s because we had gotten a pretty good ways into the floats and turning back now would, quite frankly, really really suck. Or maybe it’s because the next thing we have to do involves using heavier fabric. Either way…
In the back of my head, I keep worrying that I accidentally unwrapped the 18oz fabric instead of the 12oz fabric and had been using something too heavy all this time and would use the lighter fabric on the wrong parts.
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There are a few areas that we’re not too pleased with in regards to the keel join on the starboard float – a few areas that have some bubbles that we’ll need to fix. Because of this, the port float will get the keel taped when it is positioned upright. At that point we’ll also put another layer of epoxy in the bilge area of the floats.
Once this is complete, the floats will be placed upside-down to make the flanges and fair the keel and such.
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